New Balance 990 vs 992 vs 993: Which Grey Classic to Buy
New Balance 990 vs 992 vs 993 compared: the history of each, the cushioning, how they look, how they fit and which one is the right pair for you.
By BLW · · 6 min read
The New Balance 990, 992 and 993 are three generations of the same idea: a premium, mostly American-made grey running shoe that ended up as a style staple. The 990 is the original line, launched in 1982 and now on its sixth version (990v6, 2022), with the most modern, bounciest ride thanks to FuelCell foam. The 992 (2006) is the chunky one, the shoe Steve Jobs wore, with the boldest early-2000s shape. The 993 (2008) is the calmest and most traditional-looking, the classic "dad shoe" with ABZORB cushioning. If you want comfort and a cleaner modern line, pick the 990v6; if you want the retro icon, the 992; if you want the quietest everyday pair, the 993.
All three sit in New Balance's 99X family, and all three are usually made in the United States, which is a big part of why they cost what they do. Here is how to choose between them.
A short history of the 99X line
The 990 (1982 to now)
The first 990 launched in 1982 as a premium running shoe, priced at $100 when that was a shocking amount for a trainer. It set the template: grey pigskin suede, mesh and a stable heel. Since then it has been updated roughly every few years:
- 990v2 (1998) brought ABZORB cushioning and the two suede stripes on the toe.
- 990v3 (2012) arrived for the 30th anniversary, with ENCAP in the sole and more mesh.
- 990v4 (2016) refined the ENCAP cushioning and looked very close to the v3.
- 990v5 (2019) added a TPU heel piece and an OrthoLite insole.
- 990v6 (2022) switched to FuelCell foam in the midsole with a chunkier sole and cleaner panelling.
Older versions keep coming back too. The 990v2, v3 and v4 have all been reissued, so "990" in a shop can mean any of them. Check the version in the product name.
The 992 (2006)
The 992 launched in 2006 for New Balance's 100th anniversary as the next step in the 99X line. It is the bulkiest of the three, with a big layered sole and lots of suede overlays. It became famous as Steve Jobs's everyday shoe. After being dropped for a decade it returned in 2020 and has been a regular since.
The 993 (2008)
The 993 arrived in 2008, combining elements of the 991 and 992 into one cleaner design with tuned ABZORB cushioning. It was a serious running shoe in its day and, because it never really left the catalogue, it is the pair you will have seen on a lot of dads. That is now exactly why people buy it.
Cushioning: which is most comfortable?
The three use different cushioning, and you can feel it.
- 990v6: FuelCell plus ENCAP. FuelCell is New Balance's lighter, springier performance foam; ENCAP wraps a softer core in a firmer polyurethane rim for support. The result is the most responsive and modern-feeling of the three.
- 992: ABZORB. Cushioning units in the heel and forefoot on a thick, stable sole. It feels plush and planted, a little heavier underfoot.
- 993: ABZORB. Similar cushioning in a more traditional, slightly softer and lower package. Very easy to wear all day.
For most people the 990v6 is the most comfortable for long days on your feet, with the 993 close behind for a softer, more old-school feel. The 992 is comfortable too, but you buy it for how it looks.
How they look
- 990: depends on the version. The v6 is sleek for a 99X, with a chunkier sole and no suede patch behind the "N". The v3 and v4 are the classic grey-runner look; the v2 is the slimmest and most retro.
- 992: the boldest. Thick, layered sole, lots of overlays, a strong mid-2000s silhouette. Reads best with wider trousers.
- 993: the most understated. Smooth, rounded, uniform grey. It works with almost anything, from wide-leg denim to tailored trousers.
Grey is the signature, but all three now come in seasonal colours and collaborations, so the choice is never only about grey.
Made in USA: what it means
Most 990s, 992s and 993s carry the Made in USA label (New Balance also makes some 99X pairs in other countries). New Balance says it uses the label where a shoe's domestic value is at least 70%, and it still runs factories in New England, including in Maine. That domestic production is a big reason these models cost more than most of the range. Look for "Made in USA" or "MADE" in the product name when you compare.
Sizing
The general consensus from retailers and wearers:
- 990: runs true to size for most, with some finding it slightly roomy. If you are between sizes or have narrow feet, half a size down can work.
- 992: true to size; wide feet might want half a size up.
- 993: true to size with a roomy toe box.
The big plus of the 99X line is width. Many 990s and 993s come in several widths, with D as the standard men's width and 2E and wider for broader feet, so you can get a proper fit rather than sizing up. Unisex pairs (codes starting U) are usually sized in men's sizes; check the shop's size chart.
How they compare with the 9060 and 2002R
People cross-shopping a 99X often look at two cheaper, non-USA models.
990 vs 9060
The 9060 launched in 2022 and mixes the 99X heritage with early-2000s running shoes like the 860v2. It has a huge, sculpted ABZORB and SBS sole that looks deliberately exaggerated. It is chunkier and more fashion-forward than any 99X, and not made in the USA. Choose the 990 for quality and a cleaner look, the 9060 for drama.
990 vs 2002R
The original 2002 was a 2010 running shoe; the 2002R remaster came back in 2020, pairing a similar upper with the sole unit from the 860v2, with ABZORB and N-ergy cushioning. It has the same grey-runner vibe as a 99X, is lighter-looking and usually costs noticeably less. If you want the look on a budget, the 2002R is the easy pick; if you want the made-in-USA build and a longer life, go 99X.
Which one should you buy?
- Buy the 990v6 if comfort comes first and you like a modern, slightly chunky shape.
- Buy a 990v3 or v4 reissue if you want the classic grey runner in its best-known form.
- Buy the 992 if you want the statement pair and wear wide or baggy trousers.
- Buy the 993 if you want one quiet shoe that goes with everything and feels soft all day.
All three will outlast a cheaper trainer if you rotate them and clean the suede now and then. If you are building an outfit around them, our guides to the best baggy jeans for men and Japanese streetwear brands are good next reads, and Carhartt WIP or Engineered Garments workwear is a natural match for grey suede.
Compare prices and sizes
The same 990, 992 or 993 colourway is often sold by several shops at different prices, and the sizes each one has left change daily. Browse New Balance or men's sneakers on Kounter Kulture to see every shop side by side, who has your size and width in stock, and who has it on sale. For other options, see ASICS, HOKA and women's sneakers.
Questions people ask
What is the difference between the New Balance 990 and 992?
The 990 is the original line, now in its sixth version with FuelCell foam and a cleaner modern shape. The 992 is a 2006 model with ABZORB cushioning and a bulkier, more retro silhouette. The 990v6 feels more responsive; the 992 looks bolder.
Is the 990v6 or the 993 more comfortable?
Most people find the 990v6 more responsive and better for long days, thanks to FuelCell and ENCAP. The 993 is softer and lower in feel. Both are very comfortable; it comes down to bouncy versus cushy.
Do New Balance 990s run big?
They mostly fit true to size, though some find them slightly roomy. If you are between sizes, consider half a size down, or choose a narrower width if your shop offers it.
Are all New Balance 990s made in the USA?
Most are, but not every pair. New Balance makes some 99X shoes elsewhere, so check for "Made in USA" or "MADE" in the product name.
Which is better, the 990 or the 2002R?
The 990 is better built and usually made in the USA; the 2002R gives a similar look for less money. Buy the 990 to keep for years, the 2002R if you want the style without the price.
