Needles Track Pants Guide: Fits, Fabrics and Sizing Explained

Needles track pants are the Japanese label's signature piece: a made-in-Japan track pant with a side stripe, zip pockets and an embroidered butterfly at the hip, cut in several fits. The Narrow is slim and tapered and fits true to size; the standard Track Pant is straight; the H.D. is wide and oversized, so many people size down; the Zipped has zips at the hem; and the Boot-Cut flares. They come in a shiny Poly Smooth polyester and a softer velour. Most people take their usual size in the Narrow and straight fits and one down in the H.D.

They are expensive for a track pant, so here is what you are paying for and how to get the right pair.

Who makes Needles

Needles belongs to Nepenthes, the Tokyo company Keizo Shimizu founded in 1988. Nepenthes started by importing American brands to Japan, at a time when American-made clothing was getting harder to find, and soon opened its own shops in Tokyo. Shimizu launched Needles in the 1990s as the group's own label, mixing vintage Americana, military surplus and Japanese craft. Nepenthes is also home to Engineered Garments, founded by Daiki Suzuki, and South2 West8, so if you like Needles you will probably like its siblings.

The label makes far more than track pants, from cardigans to the H.D. trousers and rebuilt flannels, but the track suit is the piece people know it by. For the wider picture, see our guide to Japanese streetwear brands.

The butterfly logo

The butterfly, or papillon, comes from Steve McQueen's chest tattoo in the 1973 film Papillon. Shimizu was a McQueen fan, and the embroidered butterfly first appeared on the track pants before it became the Needles logo itself. On the pants it sits at the hip or upper leg, and it is the quickest way to spot a pair across the street.

The fits

Names change slightly from season to season and between shops, but these are the main cuts.

Narrow Track Pant

The slimmest cut: slim through the thigh and tapered to the ankle, without being tight. The cleanest and most versatile fit, and the easiest to wear with sneakers. It fits true to size.

Track Pant (straight)

The standard track pant with a straight leg: roomier than the Narrow, falling straight from hip to hem. The relaxed classic.

H.D. Track Pant

H.D. is Needles' wide, egg-shaped pant: a high rise, a generous thigh and a leg that narrows slightly at the hem. The H.D. Track Pant puts the track pant details on that shape. It is designed to fit oversized, so if you want a closer fit, go one size down.

Zipped Track Pant

A track pant with zips at the hem, so you can open the leg over boots or chunkier shoes or close it for a neater line.

Boot-Cut Track Pant

A flared leg that opens at the hem and stacks over the shoe. The most fashion-forward fit, and good with boots or chunky sneakers.

Narrow vs straight vs H.D.: which fit to choose

• Narrow if you want one pair that goes with everything and a sharp silhouette with low sneakers.
• Straight if you want comfort and the classic 90s look.
• H.D. if you wear wide trousers and big shoes, and want the pant to be the statement.

If you only buy one pair, most people start with the Narrow.

The fabrics

• Poly Smooth. The classic: 100% polyester with a smooth, slightly shiny face and a clean drape. Light, quick-drying and easy to wear year round. This is the fabric of the stripe-and-butterfly pants you see everywhere.
• Velour. A plush, soft fabric, usually a cotton and polyester blend (check the composition on the listing, it varies). Warmer and more luxurious; an autumn and winter fabric.

Details vary by season, but you can expect an elastic waist with a drawstring, side stripe webbing, zip hand pockets and a back pocket, and a Japanese-made label.

Needles track pants sizing

Needles track pants usually come in XS to L. The sizing is Japanese, so check the measurements if you normally take a large Western size or have long legs.

• Narrow and straight: take your normal size. Tall wearers may want to size up for length.
• H.D.: one size down from your usual for a closer fit, or your normal size for the full oversized look.
• Between sizes: the elastic waist and drawstring help, so let length decide.

Every shop lists measurements for its pairs. The waist, inseam and leg opening are the numbers to compare with a pair of trousers you already own.

Needles track pants for women

The track pants are cut in men's sizes but worn by everyone. Women usually come down a size or two from their usual letter size for a similar fit, or keep a bigger size for a slouchier look; compare the waist and inseam measurements to be sure.

Are Needles track pants worth it?

They cost a lot more than a sportswear track pant, and you are paying for Japanese manufacture, the details and the butterfly. The Poly Smooth is light, quick-drying and easy to care for, and the cut has barely changed in years, so a pair does not date. If you want one pair that will last and stay in style, yes. If you want the look for less, there are good alternatives.

Alternatives we stock

• Stüssy makes track and nylon pants with the same relaxed 90s energy for less money.
• Adidas Originals by Song for the Mute has done track pants as part of its collaboration, a more designer take on the classic three stripes.
• Gramicci is not a track pant, but its elastic-waist climbing pants give you the same comfort in cotton.
• South2 West8 and Engineered Garments, from the same Nepenthes family, make relaxed trousers with a similar mix of outdoor and vintage.

How to style Needles track pants

• With a sneaker. The Narrow with a low, slim trainer or a New Balance 99X is the classic.
• With a hoodie or tee. A heavyweight hoodie or a plain tee keeps the focus on the stripe.
• Dressed up. A cardigan, an oxford shirt or a simple jacket over a Narrow pant is the very Japanese way to wear them.
• Full tracksuit. The matching track jacket for the complete look, or a contrasting colour for something less uniform.

Compare prices and sizes

The same Needles track pant is usually sold by several shops at different prices, and sizes go fast. Browse Needles or men's trousers on Kounter Kulture to compare every shop's price, see who has your size in stock and catch them on sale.

Questions people ask

Do Needles track pants run small?

The Narrow and straight fits run true to size, though Japanese lengths can be short for tall wearers. The H.D. fits oversized, so many go a size down.

What is the difference between the Narrow and the H.D. track pant?

The Narrow is slim and tapered; the H.D. is wide, high-rise and oversized. The Narrow suits low sneakers; the H.D. suits big shoes and a looser outfit.

What does the Needles butterfly mean?

It comes from Steve McQueen's butterfly tattoo in the film Papillon. It first appeared on the track pants and became the brand's logo.

What are Needles track pants made of?

Most are Poly Smooth, a 100% polyester with a smooth, slightly shiny finish. Velour versions use a softer, warmer fabric, usually a cotton and polyester blend.

Where are Needles track pants made?

In Japan.